By Jean-Louis Flandrin
The series within which foodstuff has been served at nutrients has replaced enormously over the centuries and has additionally diversified from one state to a different, a truth famous in almost each culinary background. such a lot nutrients writers have taken care of the extra major changes as stand-alone occasions. the main recognized instance of the sort of swap happened within the 19th century, while carrier à los angeles française—in which the lovely presentation made a very good exhibit yet diners needed to wait to be served—gave strategy to provider à los angeles russe, within which platters have been handed between diners who served themselves. yet in Arranging the Meal, the past due culinary historian Jean-Louis Flandrin argues that this type of switch within the order of nutrition provider is much from a different occasion. as a substitute he regards it as a ancient phenomenon, person who occurred based on socioeconomic and cultural factors—another mutation in an ever-changing series of customs. As France's such a lot illustrious culinary historian, Flandrin has develop into a cult determine in France, and this posthumous booklet is not just his ultimate note but additionally an important contribution to culinary scholarship. A foreword through Beatrice Fink locations Flandrin's paintings in context and gives a private remembrance of this French culinary hero.
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Extra resources for Arranging the Meal: A History of Table Service in France
Others always or nearly always appeared on meatless days. 4 One might surmise that these vegetables, served only at meatless meals, were less attractive to gourmands and therefore ignored in meat-day meals; they were useful for Lenten and meatless meals, when there were few other options. 7 But this is pure speculation. 8 Others were used also, or only, for entremets or Lenten entrées. 10 Eggs On meatless days, as in meat-day meals, eggs were served as entremets and sometimes in soups. But on meatless days they were also served in the entrée course, in fact much more often than at other points in the meal.
Crayﬁsh or mushroom) and garnished with meatless tidbits like mushrooms, asparagus tips, carp roe, artichoke bottoms, morels, wild mushrooms, little ﬁsh sausages, and so on. For Lent, lard and other animal fats were replaced by butter and sometimes, though less and less, by oil. After the soup but generally during the same ﬁrst course came meatless entrées and hors d’oeuvres of ﬁsh in sauce or ragoût, various shellﬁsh, “eggs for entrée,” or hot ﬁsh pasties and various pies. The second course usually brought ﬁsh roasts such as those found once again in L’Art de bien traiter: ﬂounder in court bouillon, brill, fresh salmon, sturgeon, large pike, red mullet, trout, perch, and so on.
Finally, Menon’s 1746 Cuisinière bourgeoise is structured by main ingredient, but each recipe includes a marginal notation of function: hors d’oeuvre, entrée, major entrée, entremets, hors d’oeuvre or entrée, hors d’oeuvre or entremets, roast, and so on. All of these cookbooks thus offer insight into the rules by which a function was assigned to each dish. In this analysis, we will ﬁrst consider meals for meat days, when meat was allowed and could be cooked in lard. The rules for meatless days, Lent, and Good Friday were quite different and will be discussed in chapter 4.